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Luigino's New Answer Wheels

 Name: Answer Wheels – Our aspiration to make wheels that respond to the competitive speed skater regardless of size, weight or style required Answer to start from the inside out.  Answer Wheels are reverse engineered by skaters for skaters.

 With the most pronounced wheel engineer on the planet along with world champion’s Joey Mantia, Masimiliano Presti, Harry Vogel, Michael Cheek and Julie Glass it’s no wonder we have the Answer….  


 The following wheels are made with Answer I.T. – THANE (Indoor Technology Urethane). 

You either got IT or you don’t.  Answer’s got IT

Answer WHIP:   Unparalleled race wheel –Replacing Blue & Yellow G-Series

Answer GU:   (Grippy Urethane), for those uncoated slick surfaces – Replacing White Crazy Glue

Answer BURN:   The most painful wheel ever, let it burn (no pain, no gain) – NEW Training Wheel, Longest Lasting Wheel Ever.

 100mm, 105mm, 110mm

 Nistevo will remain the exclusive Matter North American Distributor Through April, 2008 or until The Answer Wheels outdoor project is complete. 


Project V1 – Answer Reflex Cores - Smart Technology

 Smart Technology is without limits:  Inspired by the best skaters in the world, we have engineered Answer Reflex Cores to be responsive to all speed skating types and styles.  If you’re a serious speed skater you deserve total performance.  

 Smart Technology is our answer to producing specific types of wheels with one style core made with different materials and size variations.  Answer’s two piece technologies (Core & Urethane) provide extra energy to the overall wheel velocity and still maintain adequate stiffness.  Smart Technology widens our material option making it possible to use simple plastics and complex hybrid materials such as urethane, as well as urethane and glass blends.  This never talked about information is instrumental to the success of competitive inline racing wheels and is currently not being exercised by any other brand.   Having the ability to adjust the reflex in the core depending on the urethane hardness and discipline for which it is being used is imperative.  

 The following wheels are all made with Answers proprietary GO-THANE

 Answer ONE: The new generation of road racing

Answer KARMA: All purpose Sportclass.  Performance packed with looks and price

Answer H2O: Specialized for wet surfaces

 Answer FLY: All around track performance

Answer BITE: Unparalleled grip

Answer MOJO: Something Radically Different, details coming this summer


IQ Cores - “The Most Intelligent Core Ever”

 Specializing in banked track racing.

 Answer’s Patented IQ technology displaces the footprint similar to that of a car with posi-traction Each wheel adjusts to the surface as you apply pressure, it knows where and when you need grip. 

 Answer has been working on the development of IQ wheels for over 5 years through the use of other applications such as roller hockey.  No one in the skate industry ever offered a wheel with an adjustable profile and/or shape.  The single most important point of any wheel is the point at which it makes contact with the skating surface.

 Answer Wheels will make it possible to be more aggressive in the turns, carry more speed in the straights, allowing your wheels to do the work.  Answer IQ wheels establishing the next level of premium speed.  Banked track racing around the world will never be the same.

IQ Wheels – A LOT MORE INFORMATION TO COME   

 

Boot Heat Molding


Luigino Heat Molding.
Please follow the step-by-step heat molding instructions below carefully to ensure optimum results and avoid damage:

1.   Remove wheels and bearings leaving the frames attached to the boot. The frame stabilizes the boot while your foot is inside along with making certain the boot is resting in the correct position during the molding process.

A) FRAME MUST BE SNUG NOT TIGHT Frame should not move by shaking the boot but should be able to move when you push on it with your hand from side to side.

2. Center oven racks, placing boot and frame in the oven to confirm the boot doesn't make contact with heating elements or other parts of the oven.

3. Preheat oven 175 ­ 200 degrees Important: don't increase the temperature setting attempting to rush the process. Slow and thorough will give you the best results. All our materials have been tested for heat molding per our instructions. Absolutely no warranty against damaged boots during the heat molding process.

4. Heat and mold one boot at a time.

A) Before putting your boot in the oven be sure to loosen the laces enough to easily slide your foot in the boot.

5. After the oven is preheated carefully place your boots in the oven.

6. Prepare a chair and area to place the boot keeping in mind the frame and boot will be extremely hot.

7. We recommend using a thin sock or nylon to help protect your foot from the heat.

8. Check the oven after 10 minutes to see if the boot is pliable. If you're not satisfied with the pliability check it every minute closing the door to the oven between minutes until you are satisfied (maximum of 20 minutes).

A) Remove from oven with caution: Use hot pad or mitt to remove the boot, avoiding contact with the frame and eyelets. Lace your boots SNUG without over tightening to avoid damage. Remove boot from the oven, quickly and carefully place it on your foot.

DO NOT STAND! THE ONLY WEIGHT ON THE BOOT IS YOUR LEG UNTIL COMPLETELY COOLED.

9) DO NOT STAND ON THE BOOT WHILE IT IS HOT; SIT IN A HARD

CHAIR/SITTING POSITION (90 DEGREE KNEE BEND) DRAW AN IMAGINARY LINE FROM THE FRONT OF YOUR KNEE TO YOUR BIG TOE FOR ACCURATE POSITIONING.
Important: Keep your hip and knee in line while your knee is directly over your toes. This is an important position to maintain during the molding process.

10 ) CHAIR/SITTING POSITION (90 DEGREE KNEE BEND) DRAW AN IMAGINARY LINE FROM THE FRONT OF YOUR KNEE TO YOUR BIG TOE FOR ACCURATE POSITIONING.
Important: Keep your hip and knee in line while your knee is directly over your toes. This is an important position to maintain during the molding process.


Below are additional molding tips.

A) Pushing out the ankle bone: Most skaters have made great use of a handled screw driver. Using the handle to apply pressure can help move the shell in specific points in extreme cases.

B) Tight toe box? Give yourself more room if needed. Using a heat gun, slowly and thoroughly heat the entire toe box. Use your thumbs to press and hold out the area/s you   need expanded.

C) Tighten the heel cup/tendon: Use oven or heat gun. Once the heel cup becomes pliable place your hands around the back of the boot applying pressure, squeezing the boot together (squeeze with more pressure than expected since composite has memory and tends to spring back slightly). Hold the cup/tendon until the shell has set-up. If you experience tight ankles after narrowing the heel cup/tendon area proceed by heating slowly and thoroughly the ankle areas inside and out (do not heat the heel area). Then place your foot in the boot, tighten the laces and wait patiently until completely cooled.

PDF file of molding directions shown above - Heat Molding.pdf


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Bearing Cleaning.


Please follow the step-by-step instructions below.

 

Clean bearings roll smoother, are faster and will last longer than dirty bearings. Grit and sand can cause small pits in the balls and create an uneven rotation. Below are instructions on how to clean a bearing with a removable shield. If the shield on your bearings are stationary, ignore the steps which are directed to removing shields.

If you clean and lubricate your bearing often they should last you a long time. Always avoid getting your bearings wet, and keep them free of sand! Clean and lubricate skate bearings immediately if they become wet.

Tools You Will Need:

Small bowl or metal pan
Straight pin
Bearing cleaner
Small cleaning brush such as a toothbrush. Soft or medium, nothing too hard!
Clean towels
Paper Towels

1. For removable shields: Insert the end of the straight pin into the end of the C-ring which holds the shield onto the bearing body. Very gently pry the C-ring up and towards the center of the bearing, working your way around the circle. Remove the shield slowly, always taking care not to damage it.

2. Place bearing in container or bowl and flush with bearing cleaner to remove contaminants. Citrus cleaners work well. Use the small brush or toothbrush and remove larger pieces of dirt and grime. If your bearings are particularly dirty, you may have to repeat this step. Be sure to change your solvent with each rinsing.

3. After you have cleaned the bearing, pat it gently dry with a clean, lint free towel. Place on a paper towel and allow it to air dry. Make sure that all water has evaporated and dries out completely before proceeding to the next step.

4. After the bearing has completely dried, apply 1 to 2 drops of quality lubricant to the inside of the bearing. A little lubricant goes a long way. Rotate the bearing slowly to work the lubricant in to all of the moving parts. Make sure the balls are completely covered in oil/grease.

5. Replace the shield by placing it on top of bearing and slipping the C-ring into the groove next to the shield. Then work remaining length of C-ring slowly and gently around the fitted groove until it snaps back into place.

6. Put your freshly cleaned bearings back on your skates and spin them to insure oil/greases is evenly distributed and wheels are spinning smoothly.

Warning: Always use extreme caution whenever working with any cleaning solvent. Bearing Cleaner is a toxic chemical and should be washed off skin immediately.

About the Author: Layla D. is a contributor to http://georgia-dog-friendly.blogspot.com/

This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact.

All rights reserved. Copyright Layla D.

 

Bearing / Wheel Information
608 = standard bearing sized hubs
688 = mini, or micro bearing sized hubs
698 = dwarf bearing sized hubs
mm = wheel diameter
A = wheel hardness "durometer" (higher = harder)


We sell the full product line of most of the inline / ice skate manufacturers.
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